Sonic - Classic

Sonic, the title character of Sega's Sonic the Hedgehog video game franchise, created by Naoto Ohshima and Yuji Naka.
Sonic is a blue hedgehog who can run at supeonic speeds and curl into a ball to attack enemies. He races through levels, collecting power-up rings and avoiding obstacles, as he seeks to defeat the mad scientist Doctor Eggman.
No supports are required. Two pieces contai built-in supports/braces. Optional parts without the built-in supports/braces are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports (see notes below). If you have the proper filament colo, no painting is needed.
The assembled model is 155mm tall.
Note:As I research characte that I model, I learn quite a bit of interesting background on the characte. I found a video of how Sonic was created and how he evolved over the yea extremely interesting. The video can be found at the beginning of the following article:
iider.com/every-veion-sonic-the-hedgehog-1991-today-evolution-2020-2
Enjoy!
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Special shoutout to maker Beno?t Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback.
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**Print Itructio:**Supports: NoResolution: .2mm (see below for printing tips suggested optional exceptio)Infill: 10%
Notes:**
Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly itructio.
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**Building the model**
Colo
Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Black)eye_black_righteye_black_leftnose..
Skin: (Paramount3D PLA - Univeal Beige)arm_rightarm_leftmouthbellyear_leftear_right..
Yellow: (Paramount3D PLA - Simpson Yellow)buckle_rightbuckle_left..
Gold: (DevilDesig Silk - Gold)ring..
Blue: (Parmount3d PLA - Cadet Blue)bodyheadhead_without_supports (optional piece)leg_rightleg_left..
Red: (3DFuel PLA - Iron Red)shoe_left_frontshoe_left_backshoe_right_frontshoe_right_back..
White: (Overture PLA - White)eye_white_dots (contai two identical pieces)eye_whitesshoe_strap_rightshoe_strap_leftshoe_top_rightshoe_top_lefthand_righthand_right_without_supports (optional piece)hand_left..
Matte Black: (Paramount3d PLA - Matte Black)shadow_base (optional base for extra stability)..
Any color: (hidden piece):pin_belly..
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**Printing and assembly tips**
Printing tips1 - No supports are required. Two pieces contai built-in supports/braces, head and hand_right. Optional parts without the built-in supports/braces are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports. The built-in supports/braces are designed for a .4mm nozzle and for the size that the model is presented. Use your discretion for which parts to use if you resize the model significantly.
2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be coervative to eure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when ierted into another part.
*I used brims on: - nose - eye_white_dots - arm_right - arm_left - leg_right - leg_left - hand_left - hand_right
3 - The eye_white_dots parts are very small. I left them on the brim and ierted them with the brim attached, I then removed the brim. This is the only part where the bed side is on the outside.
4 - I had no problem printing and assembling the legs but Benoit found that for the right leg, 10% filling was not enough and his leg was very brittle. He felt that 50% infill would be better.
5 - Some parts print better with a lower layer height. I used variable layer height on the belly (so the top laye are thinner) and and on the ring (to help print the bottom part of the curves better).
6 - The model stands on it's own but an optional base, that is included, may be prefered for extra stability.
7 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a **VERY** good idea to place left/right parts into separate containe to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them and assembling them in their proper place.
..Assembly tips:
1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.
2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. I am not affiliated with 3D Gloop but have experimented with different glues for my models and have found that this glue is a great option for my models. Each type of glue has different pros/co and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. 3D Gloop cove the middle ground for me and really works wonde. It leaves enough time to set, so parts can be positioned correctly and it dries fast enough to hold awkward parts without the need for taping. I used the PLA veion that comes in a tube. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.
3 - Due to the goal of creating parts that print easily, some of the connectio are not as 'sturdy' as I would have liked. However, taking care when gluing and having the patience to let things dry properly works fine.
4 - Gluing in the legs to the body without the shoes is much easier than gluing in the legs to the shoes fit and then ierting the whole section to the body.
5 - For the itallation of the buckle on the right shoe, this needs to be done before the shoe is fixed to the right leg. If you wait to the end, the left shoe is in your way to itall the buckle on the right shoe.
6 - In order to get proper positioning of the right arm so that the ring touches the base correctly, follow these steps. The right hand should be italled fit to the extremity of the right arm. After glue curing, the ring should be fixed and glued iide the right hand. After a dry fit check position of the arm iide the body, the right arm assembly can then be glued to the body.
7 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.
Do not hesitate to ask questio, feedback is essential to making better models.